Blitzkrieg PanzerIII, 251/1C and 222 – Project DAK wip9

More DAK …. yup.

Base colours went onto the last three German DAK vehicles. That’s pretty much all really, nothing exciting to report yet …. except the “stipple on and rub off” chipping worked out pretty well. Although it doesn’t show in the pics very well as they require some details/contrast to photograph better.

Q

dak-rh-grp-120-2-800

dak-rh-251c-040-800

dak-rh-pz3-040-2-800

And a bit of a close up (dang I wish I had a better/modern camera) of the brush stippled and rubbed off paint chipping

dak-rh-pz3-cu

dak-rh-251-cu

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17 comments on “Blitzkrieg PanzerIII, 251/1C and 222 – Project DAK wip9

  1. Another solid start Sir!
    Fior the benefit of your avid viewing audience would you mind giving a quick run-through of the ‘stipple on, rub off’ method. I’m back in an airbrush-free world and suffering an existential crisis :-). This isn’t helped by next having to do a vehicle you’ve just finished …

    • 🙂 You’ll notice I haven’t started the Portee yet. I’m not sure how to make the wheel guards ….. tricky.

      As for the Stipple on rub off, it’s as easy as it sounds. Completely different method for me using a dark base and building up colour and probably only suited to desert and maybe Russian worn winter paint.

      Anyway Grey enamel (Humbrol 27)base with darker, black, drybrushed edges. After a day to go off I stipple on the top/base coat with acrylic – these guys are Vallejo Dark Sand plus white and the PzIII has a little desert Yellow added to mustard it up a little. Build the depth up randomly leaving some areas more worn (covered) than others. If you drybrush and scumble the brush around you can lightly cover bits so it doesn’t look as rough, a bit of faux blending.

      Finally get an old stiff brush, the rougher “spikier” the better, dip it in thinners (I use X20A), wet the area and gently push at the parts you want to wear. Presto it comes off and looks a bit like a proper airbrush/hairspray or chipping fluid job. Sort of anyway.

  2. Ace. Did you do this on the 250 as well, or was that more a case of working the darker weathering on top of the sand base-coat?
    You’ll find the fenders easy – extend the top part with a scrap of plastic-card so you can be confident they go forward ahead of the radiator enough. Build up with greenstuff or miliput. Nervously keep coming back every minute for an hour trying to smooth the things off as best you can (it’ll never look right). Give up and bury under many coats of paint to even everything out. Simple 🙂

    • Nope the other three Jerries were done the same way.

      Very late in the process they do get a touch more chipping refreshment, fine brush, edge drybrush and I even tried the “sponge” method although I don’t have a way of holding (most people use a clutch pencil) and couldn’t really get any fine control over it.

      Simple fenders huh … hmmmmmm lol

  3. They look good already Brent! Like the mustardy tones of the Panzer III.
    Erm, should I just drop a line to the Perrys and ask them to send replacement mudguards etc for the Portee? Appreciate it’s a pain to have to wait, and you’re probably anxious to move onto other projects, but it’s not really good enough that the model’s been supplied with some bits missing is it? 😦
    Cheers.
    Richard

    • Hey Richard, dunno they’d supply, as it was really my fault for not checking the parts properly when unboxing and I should have snapped a “proof” pic.

      You could ask them and see what they say. If they want post or cost covered I’ll knock it off the commission cost as it really was an issue of my own making …. its the front assembly that’s not there, mudguards, bumper and light assembly.

      cheers
      Brent

  4. Looking at the model assembly on the Perry site, it also looks like – on the Morris Portee – it’s necessary to mount the two gunner figures in position before fitting the Bofors and shield? Do you reckon that’s the case Brent? If so, although the commission was vehicles only, not figures, I might need to ask you to paint those two gunners before final fitting and fixing of the gun and shield? (I’ll pay you the extra, obvs. ) Sorry about all the Portee troubles… I shoulda just gone for another tank instead! :/

    • I’ll have a look. I could always leave the shield loose as an option. And it’s no trouble matey, all part of the process, and it’s gonna be a nice and different bit of kit too.

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